How Kolhapuri Chappals Are Made: Materials, Tools & Step-by-Step Process

Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals made through a mostly manual, skill-heavy process. Artisans typically use buffalo hide for the sole (for strength) and goat/sheep leather for the upper straps (for flexibility and comfort).
Many authentic Kolhapuris are also made using traditional vegetable tanning and natural dyeing, which gives the leather its earthy feel and helps it age beautifully.

Raw Materials

  • Buffalo hide / cow hide (mainly for the sole and footbed)

  • Goat leather / sheep leather (commonly used for side straps and decorative braids because it bends easily)

  • Natural tanning ingredients like Hirda (myrobalan) and Babul used in traditional tanning

  • Threads / cords (some makers use nylon or zari threads; traditional cord can be cut from tough hide portions)

  • Polish / shoe cream for finishing

  • (In some traditional pairs) seeds placed inside the sole to create the signature “sound” while walking

Traditional Tools

  • Hammer / metal hammer - beating and hardening the sole

  • Rappi (knife), cutting knives, scissors - cutting leather parts

  • Ari/Awl + piercing tools - making stitch holes

  • Stamps & punches - logos and decorative punching

How a Kolhapuri is made

Step 1: Leather preparation

This step turns raw hide into usable leather.

  • The hide is soaked in salt and lime for a few days to soften it and help remove hair.

  • In the traditional “bag tanning” method, the hide is stitched into a bag shape using sisal/cactus leaf.

  • A tanning mix made with Hirda (myrobalan) + Babul is prepared with water and used over multiple days for tanning.

  • The hide is later dried in sunlight and stored properly before use.

Step 2: Shaving and smoothing the leather

  • The rough surface is shaved/smoothed until it becomes even and workable.

Step 3: Cutting the patterns

Artisans cut each part using templates and hand tools.

  • Leather is cut according to the size and design of the chappal.

  • Typically, different portions of the hide are used for different parts (for example, selected areas for the footbed and thicker parts for the sole).

Step 4: Making the sole

This is where the durability comes from.

  • Thick leather is used for the sole and is regularly beaten/pressed on the cobbler’s anvil with a hammer to harden and shape it.

  • The sole/footbed layers are aligned and prepared for assembly.

Step 5: Strap making

This is the most “identity” part of a Kolhapuri.

  • Goat leather is commonly preferred for side straps because it can be curved into shape easily.

  • Thin strips are cut and plaited/braided, then fixed onto the strap area and kept aside for drying.

  • Depending on the style, uppers may include braids, cutwork, punched patterns, or decorative stitching.

Step 6: Assembly

  • Cut pattern pieces are first stuck using local adhesive to hold the structure in place.

  • Straps and the toe strap are attached to the base.

  • Then the chappal is stitched often with nylon thread today. 

Step 7: Coloring and finishing

  • Color is brushed in stages (some traditional workflows mention yellowish/reddish tones done in layers).

  • Final finishing is done using cream polish / shoe cream for a neat look and surface protection.

Step 8: Drying and final check

  • The chappals are sun-dried (often in diffused sunlight) for a short period to set the finish.

  • Artisans inspect stitching strength, strap alignment, finishing, and overall comfort before the pair is ready. 

Why each pair feels different

  • Handcut + hand-stitched leather means small natural variations are normal—this is a sign of real craft.

  • Natural leather gradually molds to your foot shape, which is why Kolhapuris often get more comfortable after a few wears.